SAN ANTONIO, TEXAS -- The morning after the Alamo Bowl, I had some coffee in the stately library of Hotel Emma, which opened last November after renovation of the 19th century Pearl Brewery.
My mission for the day was to see a bit of San Antonio and eat as many tacos as possible. I had a few names of taco spots from research I had done online.
"These look pretty good," said Hugh Daschbach, the concierge at Emma, when I showed him my taqueria list. He put stars next to a few spots he recommended. "But if it's OK, I'd like to add another place to your list: Maria's Cafe on Nepalito Road in Southtown."
"There's a saying here - puro San Antonio, which means pure San Antonio," said Daschbach, who is a bonafide globetrotter with deep Southern roots. "Maria's is puro San Antonio. It'a tiny place, family owned, tons of random things on the walls. Lots of local character. Everyone in San Antonio has their favorite taqueria. My go-to spot is Maria's."
Maria's.
Maria's is an unassuming cafe located about a mile south of the city's touristy center, in a neighborhood (Southtown) where locals outnumber visitors. There are 8 tables inside, tight aisles, and I shared a spot in the back with a regular named Cheryl, who was enjoying a torta dripping with salsa.
Maria was at the register in front, and the walls were covered with random ephemera such as gas station signs, black and whites of old-time Hollywood stars and a painting of the Virgin Mary.
Maria's daughter Leslie sat down at the table and guided me through the menu. "You have to try the barbecue brisket tacos. My Dad smokes the brisket and people really love it." I ordered a couple along with a carne asada taco. All the tortillas are made in house and I opted for a trifecta of corn, flour and whole wheat.
Like most traditional taquerias in San Antonio, Maria's is only open from early morning to 2pm. Cheryl finished her torta and said goodbye. Her spot was taken by Lester, a mustachioed local who greeted me with "How's it going, brother?" The TV above my right shoulder was turned to the news.
The tacos arrived. The tacos soon disappeared. What do you think, asked Leslie. I said that, while I liked the carne asada, I loved the brisket. The meat was shredded and paired perfectly with onions, cilantro and salsa, with a smoky after taste that screamed Texas.
She smiled. "Yeah, people really love the brisket. We make it with nachos, enchiladas, tacos. People sprinkle that brisket on just about everything,"
It would be tough to compare the pork belly tacos I had yesterday at La Gloria to these brisket tacos. As if they were my children, I love them equally. But the atmosphere at Maria's set this place apart. It was an authentic spot, that told me something about the city. This is where neighbors gathered to share tacos, tortillas and the news. Puro San Antonio.